MANORBIER CONSERVATION AREA STATEMENT

2.2 Planning (Listed Building & Conservation Areas) Act 1990

The PCNPA proposes undertaking this in two distinct stages – each with extensive community consultations (Appendix 7).

4.1

Historical Evolution

After the Norman Conquest of South Pembrokeshire in the late 11th-early 12th century, Manorbier became part of the earldom of Pembroke. In terms of feudal tenure, Manorbier was a ‘mesne lordship’, or ‘honorial barony’ held for a service of 5 knights’ fees.

The earliest lords were the de Barris, a middle ranking Anglo-Norman family, with Welsh blood, from Barry in South Glamorgan, who took part in the mid 12th century conquest of Ireland.

4.2

Prominent Medieval Architecture

Attesting to the medieval importance of Manorbier are a number of highly significant surviving structures, including the castle, church, grange, dovecote and mill. A significant layer of occupation in the highly unique and early surrounding landscape, these structures are all Scheduled Ancient Monuments and are shown in Appendix 10.

No less important, are the historic Landscape features, including the field systems and boundaries, the deer park, fishponds and the early roads, such as Mead Lane.

MEAD LANE (MUD LANE)

Mead Lane was a droving route, along which stock was moved to coastal grazing areas. The early road leading alongside the castle down to the mill and foreshore was also used for this purpose.

Manorbier Castle was one of the earliest built after the Norman Invasion, probably by Odo de Barri during the 12th century. The Castle was later expanded and strengthened during the 13th century, to enclose an outer ward, which may possibly have had the earliest medieval village within it. It was held by the de Barri family and their descendants for about 200 years, until 1461 when taken by Edward IV. Thereafter there was a rapid succession of lords, mainly absentee and the manor reverted to the Crown who leased it out. In 1601 the manorial steward, Thomas Bowen of Trefloyne obtained a lease of the manor; his grandson Thomas conveyed all his properties to Sir Erasmus Phillipps of Picton Castle in 1670.

In 1146 Giraldus de Barrie (otherwise known as Giraldus Cambrensis or more popularly, Gerald of Wales), was born in Manorbier Castle, fourth son of William de Barri. In his ‘Itinerary though Wales’, Geraldus provides a vivid account of his place of birth, which he describes as ‘the paradise of all Wales’.

“There the house stands, visible from afar because of its turrets and crenellations, on the top of a hill which is quite near the sea and which on the western side reaches as far as the harbour. To the north and north-west, just beneath the walls, there is an excellent fish-pond, well constructed and remarkable for its deep waters. On the same side there is a most attractive orchard, shut in between the fish-pond and a grove of trees, with a great crag of rock and hazel-nut trees which grow to a great height.”

His descriptions, including that above, date from the 12th century but incredibly refer to features still surviving today, such as the castle, dovecote, located north west of the castle, church and mill to the west of the castle. The medieval fishpond, now overgrown, located between the dovecote and the castle is at present undergoing a feasibility study for its restoration.

The castle was in severe decline by the late 17th century, when it was divided into tenements and farm buildings. The castle ruins were consolidated in the late 19th century, by the renowned castle enthusiast J.R. Cobb, who built the house in the Inner Ward.

The church, dedicated to St James, structurally dates from the 12th century and was enlarged several times from the 14th to the 16th century, being restored during the late-19th century. The site however was possibly occupied at a far earlier period. The church is unusually large and retains several features such as the barrel-vaulted roofs and remains of the medieval rood-screen.

The listed ruins adjacent to Church Hill Cottage, are probably all part of a grange established on the site by Monkton Priory, which was granted to the church in 1301, by Sir John de Barri. Fenton (1810) felt that the ruins were of a chantry or college building, a theory disputed by Barnwell in 1877. The adjacent Church Hill Cottage contains a fine medieval barrel vault, and from c. 1840 was the village school, established by Rev. Henry Hughes – it continued as a school until c. 1900.

4.3 Economic History

Medieval Manorbier was very much an agricultural settlement, with clear evidence of communal cultivation in a large ‘open field’ on its north-east side and coast edge grazing to the south. To the west, during the de Barri period at least, were the demesne lands of the lords close to the castle, consisting of a park, woodland and the all-important source of lordly revenue, the mill with a large mill-pond on the west side of the Castle.

Fragments of what is thought to be the medieval Deer Park walls survive to the west of the castle. Deer Parks were an essential part of many medieval manors for food supply – at Carew, most traces of the park have been lost, while at Tenby, only the name itself survives. One of the best survivals locally is at Lamphey Park, serving the vast Bishop’s Palace. An alternative theory is that given the relatively small size of the enclosure and the lack of marginal ditches, this may be the medieval orchard mentioned by Gerald.

An open field system of farming with intermixed strips would have been practised during the later Middle Ages. The great block of hedged strips surrounding the village today represents one of the old township fields and remains as an important surviving example. Due to absentee lords, the demesne was rented out, which may be the origin of the distinctive form of tenure, ‘censory holdings’, dependant on the will of the lord, characteristic of Manorbier and remarked upon by Fenton in 1811.

Typical of its predominantly agricultural character, is the former existence of a cattle pound at the eastern edge of the village, dating from the late 18th century. The enclosure was partially altered in 1900 when the Bier House was built within its walls for the parish funeral bier. It is now used as a tourist information point.

Smuggling was rife in the region during the 18th century and early 19th century, where illegal cargoes were landed at many inlets around the South Pembrokeshire Coast. Manorbier seemed to be the chief centre, its old castle being honeycombed with smugglar’s cellars. It was stated that "this illicit trade was put a stop to by Lord Cawdor, who was nearly killed in the attempt" a letter from Lady Cawdor to Charles Greville dated Nov 18,1801 speaks of this attack being in Freshwater East. It was however noted in 1804, that "the tide-surveyor of Tenby seized 47 ankers of brandy at Manorbier.

In the second half of the 19th century Manorbier began to develop again this time as a seaside retreat ‘for persons of quality’. The tourist industry undoubtedly developed with the rise of Tenby as a fashionable resort from early 19th century, with several houses and cottages being built in the 1860s and 1870s, including Morfa Terrace and Glan-y-Mor.

In the first half of the 20th century it was a rather exclusive seaside village, favoured by literary people including George Bernard Shaw, Walter de la Mare, Siegfried Sassoon etc. and the artist Gwen John. On the northern outskirts of the village Sea View, now known as Vigilant House, for instance, was thought to be the summer residence of Virginia Woolf for a number of years (although other accounts name Tarr Farm, see section 8).

W.A.S Benson, a renowned London architect, was an influential resident in the village, he remodelled ‘Castle Corner’ as his home, complete with a round Flemish chimney similar to the local types, and built the fine Arts and Crafts Parish Hall in 1906, as a reading room for men.

4.4 Settlement Plan Form

The Castle expanded to enclose an outer ward, which almost certainly had the earlier medieval village within it, as so often was the case (e.g. Carew, Dynevor, and Drislwyn Castles). The road extending north eastwards from the castle formed the main later medieval street, perhaps with a single planned row on its southern side.

A major feature influencing the layout of the village must have been the large block of land to the north-east, containing narrow enclosed strip-fields, possibly pre-Norman (see 3.2) and the steep fall of the ground to the west. Probably the existing village was carved out of the early field system, although evidence is unclear. An earlier settlement may have pre-dated the Norman village, located around the Celtic church.

A peculiarity of the village layout, is the outlying position of the church on the opposite side of the valley to the castle. Although, as an alien priory its possessions were lost to the Crown, and it became a parish church at The Dissolution, the medieval inheritance of a separate settlement and tenurial unit from the village proper persisted. The adjacent ruins at Church Cottage were probably part of a grange, established on the site by Monkton Priory.

The 3 surveys of the Manor of Manorbier, undertaken in the early 17th century, suggest that the Manor was the largest of the four settlements in the area, followed by Jameston, Newton and Penally. However by 1811 the village is described by Fenton as “consisting of a few cottages inhabited, and a great number in ruins”.

Later C19 revival as a seaside village caused the reorganisation of property boundaries with many newer buildings being set back from the street frontage. Whilst the core of the village itself contracted, individual farms and scattered cottages developed along the outskirts, further blurring the original plan.

A small settlement also developed south east of the hill below the castle. The remains of those buildings can be seen as part of the walls enclosing the public toilets at the seaward end of the car park. Modern estate development has in-filled between the existing roads creating a more rounded pattern. The strong contrast between the older traditional and the more modern 20th Century development is evident.

Typical of its predominately agricultural character is the former existence of a cattle pound at the eastern edge of the village, later in-filled by the Bier House.

The historic settlement elements are mapped in Appendix 11. This settlement evolution this has produced the present architectural ‘language’ of Manorbier with a mixture of imposing buildings, simpler cottages together with fine houses and ‘villas’ striving for an elevated position and a view.

5.1

Location

Manorbier village is sited inland of the westerly facing Manorbier Bay, on the coast between Tenby and St Govan’s Head, south of ‘The Ridgeway’- the ancient drovers route between the towns of Tenby and Pembroke. (Ordinance Survey Grid Reference SS0697). As early Pembrokeshire depended solely on sea-trade, a safe-haven, anchorage or possibly even a landing stage possibly existed in or around Manorbier, however, Giraldus regretted the lack of a harbour and no harbour existed in 1601."

The village is centred around a sharp bend in the B4585 at a junction with two smaller roads, which form a small roundabout at the head of a broad conjoined valley. A dominating Norman castle, listed Grade I, stands on a rocky promontory overlooking the bay. On the slopes of the eastern valley stands an interesting medieval church, listed Grade I, characterised by its outstanding stone vaults and furnishings.

5.2

Approaches, Views and Vistas

There are 3 main vehicular approaches to the village as follows: -

1) The B4585 (from the east). This approach crosses open exposed farmland, with distant views over to Hill Farm. The entrance to the village is heralded by the prominent terrace called The Croft and then the road suddenly drops down towards the centre of the village, which in contrast to the approach, is tree lined, providing an attractive vista towards the village centre.

2) The Pembroke Road (B4585 north bound). This is an attractive rural lane flanked by characteristic Pembrokeshire hedgebanks, giving way on the west side by South Norton and the row of modern houses, but retaining the attractive hedgerow to the east, which bounds farmland. With the curve in the road, after Boat Cottage (Durance Cottage, pre 1999), are briefly glimpsed fine views, among the trees of the castle and sea. The road narrows with the gable end of Vigilant House and winds its way into the centre of the village, bounded by high stone garden walls and further south some properties built up hard to the road frontage, such as Pound Walls and The Gate. Between the properties are brief glimpses of the sea and castle.

3) The western approach is a popular coastal lane, the first views of Manorbier being over the sandy beach and the wooded headland. As the road curves round the church tower comes into view, and then the castle, set on its spur, with the houses in the village behind, dotted among the trees. The road then becomes tree lined before entering the open village centre.

4) From the sea. The best view of the village exists from the beach, the scene divided sharply by the castle rising on its dramatic spur, between the two valleys. To the north, above farmland the horizon is crowned by Boat Cottage and Vigilant House and to the east, rises the church tower with the village set back among dense trees. The dense layout of the village centre is not at all apparent.

Despite its coastal location, there are few views of the sea from the village itself, due to its wooded nature. However, 50 years or so ago, there were far fewer trees and many houses and cottages enjoyed splendid views. Attractive views of the sea become apparent at the west-end of the village, through the trees near Castlemead, framed each side by the castle and church.

From the castle gate is an excellent view of the castle, framed by a tunnel of sycamores. With progress down the lane towards the sea, more important vistas open up. To the south-east, the prominent headland and St James Church, while beyond the massive curtain walls of the castle, is a view toward the rocky headland.

From the elevated churchyard is an expansive panorama looking across the tree-cloaked village to the north-east, over the battlements of the castle towards the Deer Park and Boat Cottage, Awelon and Vigilant House and west out to sea.

5.3

Geology and Landforms

Manorbier Bay lies at the mouth of a deep valley cut into rocks of the Old Red Sandstone, consisting of bright red mudstones and siltstones, together with purple or occasionally green sandstones. These rocks were formed during the Devonian Period (c. 400 million years ago). To the north-east, the castle lies on an isolated ridge, between two tributary valleys. The village lies on Carboniferous Limestone. A fault line forms the boundary between these rock outcrops.

5.4

Topography & Settlement

Among the most striking features of the landscape today are the long narrow enclosed strip fields which extend southwards from the Ridgeway. Laid out on the central southern flanks of the ridge, in an area extending from the western environs of the village of Lydstep in the south east to as far as the village of Manorbier Newton in the north west. Topographically, the flanks of the ridge gently fall from about 100m above OD along the crest which forms the northern limit of the area, to a shallow basin about 35m above OD which traverse the area parallel to the coast. South of this basin the slopes rise again by about 40m to the tops of the coastal cliffs and headlands. The altitude range for the area of Manorbier Village is from 25 to 50 meters, with the average being 35 meters.

The biggest change in the topography of the settlement has been within the lower part of the conjoined valleys, below the castle leading to the coast and to the beach itself. As elsewhere along the coast, sand incursions have altered the foreshores in many bays. Archaeological excavations at Stackpole Warren in 1978, some 7 km west of Manorbier showed that sand began to cover cultivated land in the Bronze Age with subsequent periods of sand accumulation in the middle ages. It is particularly significant that Gerald, in his description of Manorbier in the late 12th century speaks of the valley ‘rendered sandy by the violence of the winds’.

The 1609 survey has valuable evidence on coastal change where encroachment by the sea is recorded. In Manorbier Bay below the Mill it was recorded that ‘the sea windes doe violebtile drive uppe the sand upon every storme, the land next the mill is quite covered with sand and the pastures lost and consumed’. The tailrace of the mill flowing down to the sea had to be constantly cleared of sand.

The castle and church sit at the head of the village, traditionally a nucleus of cottages, on either side of the eastern valley.

5.5

Open Spaces and Green Wedges

The village centre is relatively densely built up, but around its immediate fringes, are a number of larger houses including Morfa Terrace, Castlemead, Glan-Y-Mor and Fernley Lodge, all set in large attractive gardens, providing important green areas, important too, are the smaller well-tended front gardens. Further to the west is an amount of agricultural land, marsh, beach and rocky headlands all of which are vitally important to the setting of the village.

A number of important open areas in and around the village exist as follows:-

• The landscape setting of the castle, Church and other ancient monuments. - This area includes both headlands, the church, the paddock to the south of Castle Mead, the land to the north-west of the mill and fields up to and including Park farm. This area constitutes a highly important landscape setting for its history and archaeology. ( The green wedge and setting of SAM in the village centre)
• The children’s play area in the village centre. - This provides an attractive open space in the heart of the village.
• The green wedge to the west of Morfa Terrace, which is highly important to the setting of Morfa Terrace.

Each of these areas is identified on the settlement statement map (appendix 11). Other areas are identified at Skrinkle.

While a football pitch & cricket field are available just outside of the conservation area, along with the playground at Skrinkle, the frequently used recreational spaces within the village are the fenced off children’s play area located behind the bus stop and the sycamore bound picnic site located adjacent the castle. Both areas have wooden seating, while the picnic site also has wooden tables with seats.

5.6

Trees

With the exception of the more exposed group of houses around the Parish Hall and along Pembroke road, trees figure prominently in the village itself, chiefly in the form of large mature sycamores and beeches, and also in young and semi-mature sycamores, many of the latter self sown. An example of the dwarf type sycamore Acer Brilliantisimo is located in the castle grounds.

The ‘tunnel’ of trees over the road at the eastern end of the Conservation Area is an important and attractive feature, providing an attractive vista towards the village centre. Further west are the large sycamores and beeches within the environs of Morfa Terrace, Glan-Y-Mor and Fernley Lodge, the legacy of Victorian planting. The earliest fringes of the castle grounds contain belts of sycamores, including the avenues forming the visitor’s pathway to the castle itself.

Outside of the village centre is an area of sycamores north-west of the mill and more mature bands of trees to the north, flanking the driveway to Park Farm.

Many of these trees are protected by Tree Preservation Orders (TPO’s) these are shown on the Features Map

5.7

Communications

Manorbier village is centred around a sharp bend in the B4585, running from Lydstep towards Manorbier Station, with two adjoining roads; one running west past the castle, and one forming a one way link, enclosing the parish hall. Off these roads are various narrow tracks including the steep roads to the church and the un-metalled Mud Lane – Mead Lane used as an access route to the quarried limestone face.

All three roads into the village provide attractive scenery, particularly the coast road to the west, and Pembroke Road to the north, where the narrow entry to the village is flanked by attractive high boundary/retaining limestone walls, often harbouring attractively coloured lichens and cock and hen capping.

The historical narrow roads tightly bound by limestone walls, in and around the village of Manorbier means that very few pavements exist. Where present, they are in short and informal stretches, constructed of tarmac or concrete slab with low concrete kerbs, such as those found opposite the post office. It is evident that there is a conflict between the needs of the pedestrians and the motorists; the pedestrians’ passage is often duly impaired.

The historic routes through the village were not designed for modern vehicular traffic and in general are narrow. The main management of the narrow roads within the village occurs around the Parish Hall, which is on an island site. Roads around this site are partly one-way. Directional signage in the area is inadequate.

The very limited number of private spaces designated for the parish hall is often insufficient to satisfy the demand. This problem is further exacerbated by the unauthorised use by both tourists (especially during the summer months) and the surrounding residents who themselves have little or no parking provision. Further small pockets of parking within the village occur next to the Memorial, outside the post office and to the front of the commercial garage.

Despite the formal parking provisions around the village of Manorbier, unauthorised on-street parking within the village, particularly during the busy summer months, causes congestion of the narrow roads which in turns increases potential conflict with pedestrians, who have very few protected pathways within the village.

While a large proportion of the detached properties surrounding the village centre have their own driveways or garages, none of the terraced houses within the core of the village have any provision for off-street parking, due to historically narrow roads. Outside of Warlow’s Cottage, towards the village centre, there is a strip that is informally used for off-street parking. There are also a number of private parking spaces in front of Park View and Valley View.

The majority of traffic passing through the village (especially during the summer months) heads towards the Beach and Castle. This traffic is largely accommodated by the car park, run by the National Park Authority, situated below the castle. This car park is one third metalled at the seaward end, one-third mono-crete and the remaining area is grassed. The car parking capacity is approximately 200. Additional parking also occurs, in a lay-by on the unclassified road, west of the Beach, looking down over the bay and in the church car park.

A regular bus service (once an hour) runs through Manorbier, travelling to both Tenby and Haverfordwest via Pembroke Dock, while Leo’s Supermarket Chain runs a free service twice weekly to and from its store in Pembroke. In addition to these buses, Manorbier also has a railway station, located to the north of the village, and a taxi service -‘Manorbier Taxis’. There is one bus shelter in the village

5.8

Streetscape

Towards the beach, away from the village, there is very little illumination apart from the orange light of a street lamp located at the road junction heading towards the church. Looking towards the village from the beach, little artificial light is visible, other than that from the floodlit church and a small number of buildings.

Utility lighting within the village is provided by either bracket lamps fixed to telegraph poles or modern galvanised street lamps, which illuminate through pools of orange sodium light. In addition, the level of on-street light is increased through light spilling from the private houses, from porches or external security lights. And the external lighting of some public buildings, including the light on the Parish Hall but even more so by the internally illuminated projecting box sign of the Castle Inn.

The welcome introduction of modern utilities, services and amenities have, however introduced a number of inappropriate structures and/or street paraphernalia. Throughout the village the overhead telephone and electricity cables are noticeable, but around the Parish Hall, in particular, a large number of wires radiate out from a number of poles encircling the hall.

5.9

Access

There are a series’ of short waymarked walks around Manorbier, (including part of the Coast Path). These walks are frequently enjoyed by both tourists and local inhabitants (see Features Map.). These walks take in a variety of wildlife habitats including the seashore, sand dunes, woodland and farmland. One Public Right of Way in the area is obstructed (around Park Farm). Access to the headland at Old Castle Head is not possible because of the military presence. The Coastal Path skirts the outer-perimeter of the army camp. The PCNP Local Plan supports the development of a footpath link from the A4139 to Manorbier village centre. The footpath leading to the beach from the village is eroding.

5.10

Biodiversity

The area covered by the Conservation Area Statement includes a wide range of habitats and species of local and national importance for biodiversity.

The village is located at the head of a small stream valley which opens out onto the coast in Manorbier Bay. The valley is dominated by the castle and the church, which are located on opposite sides. Below the castle is a small tributary valley occupied by a small stream fed by springs. A series of medieval fishponds occupy this smaller tributary valley, located below the castle, which have silted-up and now support wetland vegetation. The valley above the fishponds is dominated by mixed ash and oak woodlands which give way to steep coastal slopes characterised by dense bracken and gorse scrub at the seaward end. The stream is relatively pure, and supports aquatic plants such as lesser water parsnip.

The main coastal valley below the village is characterised at its seaward end by a small, relict sand dune system. Blown sand extends up the coastal slopes behind the dunes and overlooking the car park on the eastern side of the valley. In the past, the dunes have suffered from erosion caused by the combined effects of sand extraction during the last century, wind and trampling pressure. The dunes underwent a gradual recovery following dune stabilisation work (including fencing and marram planting) in the late 1970s and 1980s. Today, the dunes and remnant dune grassland support several regionally or nationally scarce species of flowering plants such as ivy broomrape, purple (or yarrow) broomrape, portland spurge and variegated horsetail.

The dunes and the coastal slopes above them were much more open in the early 20th century than they are today. These areas were regularly grazed by livestock and the dunes supported a thriving population of rabbits, which kept scrub development to a minimum. Today, dense blackthorn scrub lines the stream which flows alongside the National Park car park, whilst the sheltered slopes above are dominated by regenerating sycamore woodland, gorse and bracken. These areas support birds that are typical of woodland edge and coastal scrub habitats in Pembrokeshire, such as white throat, linnet, stonechat and yellow hammer. The much less common lesser white throat has also been recorded in recent years. At the seaward end of the valley, tall scrub and woodland are replaced by low, wind pruned blackthorn scrub, gorse and patches of sea-cliff heath characterised by bell heather, ling and western gorse.

Within the National Park car park, behind the dunes and in a more sheltered part of the valley, trees planted in the 1970s now support rich lichen communities, whilst a scarce, rather diminutive plant, the mossy stonecrop, thrives on the mono-crete surface of the car park itself.

Maritime and coastal habitats are well represented. Within the area covered by the Conservation Area Statement are extensive rock platforms cut into the Old Red Sandstone on the foreshore. These are characterised by deep cuts, gullies and rock pools which support a wide range of rocky shore communities and species. The beach itself is predominantly sandy, with bands of shingle, larger pebbles and small cobbles on the mid and upper shores. Beach levels change seasonally, as sand is moved in and out of the bay by normal coastal processes. Low cliffs of Old Red Sandstone rise above the shore on both sides of the soft beach, above the rocky shores.

The cliffs and coastal slopes are dominated by maritime grassland and small patches of maritime heath which give way to gorse and blackthorn scrub on all but the most exposed parts of the coast in Manorbier Bay. Low rocky outcrops in the vicinity of Priests Nose support rich lichen communities that include a tiny population of the nationally scarce golden hair lichen. Choughs feed on the coastal slopes and cliff tops and oystercatchers frequent the shores.

Away from the open coast, the relatively urban environment of the village is also important in terms of local biodiversity. Gardens and hedgerows provide food, shelter and nesting habitat for a wide range of familiar birds, such as blackbird, song thrush, dunnock, wren and robin. They also provide valuable habitat for small mammals such as shrews, voles and field mice. The buildings themselves are also a significant biodiversity "resource". Limestone mortared walls support an extensive "wall flora" which includes ferns such as polypody, wall-rue and common spleenwort, and lichens and flowering plants such as ivy-leaved toadflax and wall rocket. Buildings will also support bats such as pipistrelles and brown long-eared: most of Pembrokeshire's bats are dependent on buildings from castles and churches to modern houses, for roosting and breeding.

The national importance of Manorbier, in terms of the wider environmental setting of the village, for biodiversity (as well as for geology and landform) is reflected by the designation of the cliffs, coastal slopes and part of the valley below the church as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The beach and rocky shores below Mean Low Water Mark are included in the Pembrokeshire Marine candidate Special Area of Conservation (part of the Natura 2000 network of sites currently being established throughout Europe under the EC Habitats and Species Directive) and are therefore of European significance. The rocky shores on either side of the beach also have a long history as a teaching site, used by the Field Studies Council Field Centre at Orielton, Pembroke.

6.1

Historic

Materials

In South Pembrokeshire, traditional buildings were of local limestone, most originally rendered and often painted, or whitewashed, Manorbier follows this pattern. Roofs were traditional Welsh slate, with brick chimneys. Windows were generally of the sash type, with a painted finish. Some later houses had elaborate bargeboards, while most of the earlier cottages had plain eaves. Doors were either panelled or boarded. The local practice of slate hanging is well displayed at Vigilant House.

Style

The older buildings are of a simple character, relying as much on pleasing overall appearance as architectural detail. Exceptions include the striking Arts and Crafts Parish Hall of 1908 by W.A.S. Benson and the later Victorian style of Fernley Lodge, Castle Mead and Morfa Terrace for example. The church retains many features typical of the C12 – C16, as does the castle.

Form and Orientation

Generally the older houses are of two main storeys, with the exception of Lion House which rises to three storeys. In the heart of the village, properties tended to directly front the road, or were set behind shallow forecourts, while larger houses, such as Glan-y-Mor, Fernley Lodge and Castlemead were set in larger gardens, as was the smaller Warlow’s Cottage.

The key public building in the village was and remains the Parish Hall, occupying a prominent island situation in the village centre, while the parish church stands on splendid isolation on the east of the valley, overlooking the mighty curtain walls of the castle.

6.2

Listed Domestic Buildings in the Conservation Area

SHUTE COTTAGE

Listed Grade II as a mid C19 picturesque cottage and for group value with St James’ Church.

Blue Dolphins/Sea View Cottage

Listed Grade II as a house of interesting character and with an important literary association.

WARLOWS COTTAGE

Listed Grade II as an eye-catching single storey cottage of the early C19, which has retained its external character.

CHUCH HILL COTTAGE

Listed Grade II* for the exceptional historic importance of the late medieval vaulted structure

6.3

Survey of Existing Structures

A survey of the pre-war buildings within Manorbier Conservation Area was undertaken by PCNPA in October 2000 and analysed as follows: -

Scale & Orientation

The majority of the buildings (74%) in Manorbier are 2 storeys in height, while the remainder are mainly 1 to 1 ½ storeys, with few larger buildings.

Although a range of housing types exist within the conservation area, the majority are either semi-detached (51%) or detached (46%).

The vast majority of the buildings (68%) within the village however, have the same orientation, front wall parallel with adjoining road. The exceptions to this mainly occur along the road running out to the north of the village (the B 4585), where they are positioned to take advantage of the sea views.

Few properties front directly onto the road (15%), rather properties are either set back from the road by a few metres (64%) with small walled forecourts, although some are set further back.

Vocabulary & Materials

Roof & Chimneys

All of the domestic/commercial buildings surveyed within Manorbier have pitched slate roofs, (94% are pitched circa 40 degrees). While some hipped roofs occur (23%) the vast majority of roofs are gabled (77%).

Due to the scale of the architecture within Manorbier most eaves lie above the first floor windows (43%). 29% of the buildings have eaves a notable distance from the window, while 20% of buildings have windows that straddle the eaves.

The gabled roofs within the village are further characterised by having barge boards at the gable ends (59%), of which 41% are plain, with a few instances of fretted barge boards occurring.

Most roofs are clad in natural slate (94%), uniform in size and coursing. The slate used is mainly grey (51%) or blue in colour (34%), although some purple slate occurs. 6% of the slate roofs are constructed from man-made composite products. The majority of ridge tiles are butted (69%), plain (91%) and blue/black in colour (76%).

Of the properties surveyed there are no instances of grouted slate or either plain clay or pantiles used for roofs and none were single pitched.

29% of the properties within the village have dormer windows, which in the main are gabled, with barge boards to the gables (60%).

Of the 97% of houses that have chimneys, 73% are positioned at the gable ends/party walls of the dwelling, astride the ridge, and are mostly made of brick (57%), although plain rendered and stone chimneys do also occur. 57% of the chimneys have oversailing courses. Of the brick chimneys 84% are made of red brick. 88% of the chimneys have plain clay/terracotta chimney pots.

20% of the chimneys within the conservation area have missing pots.

40% of the dormer windows within the conservation area are relatively modern and flat roofed. Very few properties have roof lights.

Walls/Facades

The overwhelming majority of the domestic dwellings within the village (91%) have rendered facades, of which 75% are smooth rendered with the remaining being roughcast. Of those rendered properties 84% are colour-washed with 62% being either white or cream in colour. Other pastel colours are evident however, including greens, blues and pinks. Modern renders and finishes have been used on some of the properties, replacing the more traditional limewashes; losing the patina of age and changing the character of the buildings

Whilst instances of random rubble stone buildings and other cladding such as slate hanging, do also occur within the village, none of the properties are brick faced.

The architecture within Manorbier, like much of Pembrokeshire, is very simple and straightforward in character. Ornamentation and detailing such as string courses, quoins, hood mouldings etc are limited to 20% of the buildings, and are usually the larger, grander buildings.

Boundaries

85% of the properties within the village have front boundaries defining forecourts or gardens. These are mainly (74%) bare random rubble limestone walls of which 78% have cock and hen capping.

Other boundary treatment is either of rendered walls (some with cast-iron railings) or hedges (often spilling over the limestone walls). No instance of large panelled or boarded fencing is evident within the conservation area. The hard boundary treatment of the modern development contrasts sharply with the softer edge of the properties within the conservation area.

While 69% of the properties within the village can be seen to have been extended, 74% of them are porches or roofs above front doors.

Windows & Doors

While 50% of the properties within the conservation area have original or traditionally styled windows, 21% of those have a mixture of original and modern replacements. The majority of the windows are made of wood (68%), 87% of which are painted white.

60% of the windows are casements, with the remaining 40% being vertical sliding sash. In the main glazing is Victorian four-paned (34%), with the remainder being small paned (28%). Windows are mainly set within reveals (53%) or are flush with the façade (33%), while 94% of all windows are symmetrical in design.

The majority of the dwellings (65%) have original or traditionally styled doors, constructed of wood (67%) and are either stained (30%), painted white (21%) or are painted another colour (24%). These are mainly black, brown or dark blues, although brighter colours such as red and green are evident.

Of the buildings surveyed 48% of the front doors have reveals, while 77% were 4 panelled, with the remainder mainly being of a vertical board construction. 58% of front doors within the conservation area had fanlights, the vast majority of which were plain.

Although 50% of dwellings can be seen to have some modern replacement windows, 29% of the windows are wrongly proportioned and 6% are un-symmetrical. 35% of the buildings have modern replacement doors, of which 75% were made of plastic. Insensitive improvements, generally those comprising of alterations to boundaries, doors and windows, are factors that strongly contribute to the degrading of a Conservation Area’s character. The lack of availability of traditional skills and material has inevitably meant the use of modern materials leading to the standardisation and therefore loss of detail.

Other Structures

These can be grouped under the following headings: -

Military

Religious

Remains of Old Vicarage

Public Buildings

Agriculture

Present

The population of approximately 640, is well served by local amenities including 2 shops (one of which is also the post office, while the other is also a seasonal café) a pub, a hotel, a commercial garage and a Parish Hall. Outside of the Conservation Area, within 1 mile of the Village, there is a school, a railway station and at Skrinkle a Community Centre. Predominately residential, it remains popular as a retirement area.

In addition, the village did have its own Sewage Works, located north-west of the castle, adjacent to the dovecote, now redundant but still used as a storm overflow system and pumping station. It is the concern of some members of the Working Group that in the event of an increase in the number of inhabitants and or visitors to the village of Manorbier, it will not be used purely as an overflow. It is poorly screened, with post and wire fencing, and it detracts from the setting of the medieval dovecote, itself in need of urgent repair.

Future Development

There are no housing allocations within Manorbier village, although the opportunity for up to 25 new houses to be accommodated within infill plots and through the development of sites with planning permission is identified in the Local Plan. The largest of these sites are the land at the former Pirates Lantern for 3 units (this is a reduction in number from 12 when the Plan was produced) and land at the Vicarage for 14 units. The latter site has recently been developed by the housing association. The single plots shown at Morfa Terrace and adjacent to Long Park are currently recorded as being under construction, although work on either or both of these may now be complete.

7.1

Survey

All of the pre-war structures within the Conservation Area were visually assessed (from the nearest street) by the PCNPA using the “Condition Survey” proforma (Appendix 9) during August 2000.

The aim was to establish the general condition of structures to identify:-

7.2

Findings (i,ii)

Generally, the vast majority of properties within the Conservation Area are in good or reasonable condition (93%). This confirms the visual impression when visiting the area, and confirms the pride that local residents have in their village.

While the survey found none of the structures to be at a high risk, one property has been identified by the Conservation Area Working Group as being a major cause for concern to the villagers. Although the vacant property, known as ‘Glyder’, was once identified as being at a low risk (see Appendix 10), the property is now receiving attention.

Group members have expressed concern regarding the fairly recent proliferation of sycamore saplings. Several properties enjoyed attractive views of the castle and the sea prior to this growth.

In addition, un-mainted limestone walls, mature self seeded sycamores, and weeds around the village, give the village an unkempt appearance. Outbreaks of the introduced Japanese knotweed, common to most of the County occur in and around the village. The verge and roadside areas are poorly maintained.

Concern has also been expressed regarding the condition of existing and the non-existence of footways. The general deterioration of the highway, gullies and boundary walls is also subjects for concern within the Working Group.

8.1

Lost Features and Changes to Manorbier

Public Houses. As well as the ‘Castle Inn’, there were two other public houses in Manorbier, “The Boot and Shoe” was located behind “Lion House” and “The Wellington Boot” by the Parish Hall at Cross House.

Allotments. The residents recall how the car park, located near the Castle, was formerly allotments, used by the residents of Manorbier. One resident remembers how her grandfather had an allotment there, where he grew ‘marvellous potatoes’, using seaweed as a fertiliser.

It is remembered that hazelnuts were collected as recently as the 1930’s in the valley area to the north of the castle.

The Spring. A main source of water for the residents of Manorbier came from a spring at the foot of Shute Cottage. The village is now supplied by mains. It is disputed that this spring, although still productive provides potable water.

Pigs. The older residents of Manorbier recall how their grandparents used to keep a pig at the top of their gardens. There are the remains of a pigsty and pig run among other agricultural ruins behind Ashleigh House.

One of the residents can remember how her grandfather would cut the throat of the pig to kill it and that she can remember hearing the poor pig screaming, all the way to school. Once killed, the pig would be washed out at the spring at Shute Cottage and would be hung up on a big hook in the kitchen. The locals can remember that one pig would last nearly a year, while one resident’s grandfather was a cobbler and would wax the hairs of the pig and use them to mend his shoes.

Farm Workers. Memoirs of residents during the early 20th century reveal that every Christmas Eve a group of farm workers would ‘do the rounds’ around the village singing carols. It is remembered that they were often rewarded with a slice of Christmas cake and a glass of home-brewed beer, while other houses also gave a cash gift to each worker.

It is also recorded that the farm workers were again rewarded after harvest, with a large vat of home-brewed beer from the land-owner.

Village Green. Some of the locals remember how Manorbier had a beautifully smooth “Village Green” located near the beach. There was also a farmstead to the south of the valley. The landscape around the beach has been entirely altered, by the removal of sand.

Oily Row. The row of houses along Pembroke Road built in the 1960's on Teddy John's fields is remembered as being initially nicknamed 'Regents Row' in view of the inhabitants of the newly built bungalows, all working at the then newly built Regents Oil Refinery, later Texaco. The locals also refer to it as 'Oily Row.

Spring Cleaning. One of the residents, Milly Davies, can remember helping her mother scrub the floor of the parish hall. The hall had a coal fire that would cover the floor in soot and would therefore blacken the white petticoats of the dancers, if not cleaned regularly.

It is also remembered how she would have to spread the rugs over a hawthorn bush and beat them to remove the dust.

Dressmakers and The Tailor. Around the time of the first World War there were two sisters both dressmakers in the village who made clothes for the girls and women. The men and boys’ needs were served by a tailor who also made ladies suits.

Shopping. The main store in Manorbier was the Post Office and general store called F. H. Hughes & Son and was run at one time by Jean Kitchen’s father. The shop was located in an adjoining part to where the Chives restaurant stands today. Prior to that it occupied a property across the road, which still retains its original shopfront. Jean Kitchen remembers her father’s shop having a horse and trap that would deliver all of the loose bags of flour and sugar etc. In addition there was a butcher at South Norton.

As well as the permanent store, mobile traders would visit Manorbier. Those best remembered are Mr White, the baker (from Lamphey) who delivered bread, Mr Hay who brought oil from Tenby, Mr Simon the grocer from Pembroke, Mr Evans from St Clears who took orders for haberdashery, Mr Morgan who brought flour from Carew Mill, the fish lady from Llangwm and the French Onion man, who came on a bike.

8.2

Characters & Stories from Manorbier

Teddy John was a farmer, who ran a farm and also a garage within the village and later ran a taxi service. It is remembered how he used to deliver the milk in jugs to the villagers. As his cows frequently ate the Wild Garlic that grew around the village, the milk was tainted with the strong taste of garlic. Some years ago, Mr John was a key witness in a Public Inquiry that led to the permanent opening of the Back Road at Lydstep.

The residents remember Teddy being a great character who would tease the children with his tales. One of the residents remember asking him what the weather was going to be like and he would reply ‘its going to be nice – I tells by the flies’. He would also tell tales about Tom Davies, who made the coffins in Coffin Cottage, now named Workshop Cottage. Teddy would tell stories of how the corpses would push up the lids and that Tom would have to bang their knees down!

Tom Davies, the undertaker had a horse-drawn hearse pulled by a pony, kept at the Bier House. It is remembered how Annie Evans would polish the brass before funerals and that it was last used for Lady Simon.

Ernest Handel Evans. Locals remember Ernest Evans being a very talented pianist for all occasions held at the Parish Hall. It is recalled how he was a short man who would pull his trousers up around his chest and that because of his height, he was hidden behind the piano when playing.

It is remembered how a relative of Mrs Benson who lived at Corner House would take a tablet of soap and bathe at Manorbier Bay, as did Vicar Williams for many years.

Wilfred Hicks. Mr Hicks is remembered as being a wonderful stonemason (a sun dial of his can be found at Pound Cottage) and singer, who would sing for ages at events and concerts held in the Parish Hall. One of the residents remember how he would always go to Allaway for his lunch every Tuesday and Thursday and that she would have to pick up a Western Telegraph for him to read.

Mrs Morse was the landlady of the Castle Inn, who apparently was a scary looking woman with a glass eye. The older residents of Manorbier recall that at the time she served the beer traditionally, straight from a jug. It is also remembered that she would throw her buckets of water/slops over the road, which mystified the children at the time, who couldn’t understand why she didn’t pour it down the drain.

Mrs Morse, it is remembered, became suspicious following a robbery and that from then on she would sit with a double barrel shotgun draped across her lap. Jean Kitchen also recalls how Mrs Morse would come into her fathers shop and would always ask for ‘Typhoid Tea’ instead of ‘Typhoo Tea’.

The Land Army. During the war single women and refugees were billeted to farms in and around Pembrokeshire, to help out with the work, many of whom married and settled into the area.

Willie Watkins was the cobbler and carpenter for Manorbier who lived at Pound Walls.

8.3

Famous Inhabitants and Visitors

While Manorbier has played host to and also developed and subsequently encouraged its own characters, it has also upon occasions been the temporary residence for some famous people. These include:-

• Winston Churchill – locals recall that he visited the army camp during the war.
• Lloyd George – locals remember going down to catch a glimpse of him at Manorbier station during the war.
• Virginia Woolf – while it is thought that she resided in ‘Sea View’ now ‘Vigilant House’ during her stay at Manorbier, some believe that in fact she stayed at Tarr Farm (which had better views of the sea), where she wrote ‘The Waves’.
• W.A.S. Benson – a renowned London architect who designed the Parish Hall and remodelled Castle Corner, where he lived.
• Lady St Davids – is thought to have lived at South Norton.
• Gwen John – had numerous holidays in Sea View. (later to be called Blue Dolphins and then Vigilant House)
• Walter de la Mare – he and his family often stayed at Skrinkle Farm and one year is thought to have judged the literary section of the Eisteddfodd, held in the Castle.
• George Bernard Shaw – he and his wife were regular visitors to Manorbier.
• Siegfried Sassoon – came to Manorbier to visit Walter da la Mare at Skrinkle in August 1924. He wrote three poems whilst at Manorbier including ‘A Ruined Castle.’
• Sir John Simon – the former Liberal Foreign Secretary, owned and lived at Glan-y-mor. His sister, Miss Margaret Simon, also ran the Brownies and the Guides at Manorbier.
• Lesley Kenton – the health adviser and nutritionist and writer lived for a time in Blue Dolphins until 2000.
• Duncan Edwards – served his National Service in Manorbier. A player for Manchester United, he was killed in the Munich Air Crash in 1958.

Manorbier continues to be a place of tranquillity, where many artists and writers seek and find inspiration.

8.4

Annual Events Clubs & Societies

Past Events

Eisteddfodd. The Eisteddfodd was celebrated every year in the Castle with singing, plays and competitions. One of the residents remembers making a kite for the competition when she was a child, although she recalls that it didn’t win.

Sunday School Outings. Fondly remembered by the elder residents of Manorbier, are the Sunday School outings. It is recalled that Saundersfoot was the traditional location for the children of Manorbier, while Manorbier itself was often the destination for the children of Tenby. Manorbier was also the venue for school trips from further afield, the Valley communities often sent their children by train to Manorbier. Once at the station they would walk across country to Park Farm valley, whilst Teddy John brought the picnic hampers from the station by horse and trap. The children partook in games and sports in the valley. Remains of the old toilets can still be identified in the woods.

Dances in the Parish Hall. Almost a weekly occurrence, were the dances held within the Parish Hall, with Ernest Evans playing the music on the piano. The Parish Hall was also used as the venue for the Youth Club and all other manner of events that occurred within Manorbier and seems to be utilised today, as much as it was in the past.

Travelling Shakespeare Company. Every year a travelling Shakespearian company performs a play within the walls of the Castle.

Present

Manorbier today retains a good sense of community spirit, having a whole variety of clubs and societies as well as a very vocal and well supported Community Council. The clubs and societies and some of the annual events held within Manorbier include the following;

• Church Fete –held every year within the castle grounds is very well attended, not just by the locals but also by tourists and other people from surrounding villages.
• Millennium Pageant and Gala - held in the Castle on 24th June 2000.
• Manorbier & District Gardening Club
• The Ridgeway Historical Society
• Manorbier & District Womens Institute who run a market in the summer
• Book Club
• Manorbier United AFC
• Manorbier Cricket Club – well established with a long history
• Manorbier Short Mat Bowls Club
• Manorbier Youth Club
• Manorbier Parochial Church Council
• Manorbier & District Community Association
• Manorbier & District Twinning Association
• Manorbier RA Range
• Manorbier Community Millennium Festival Committee
• Manorbier Medieval Fishponds Restoration Group